A PDXmas, VI

In the Portland of my memories and dreams, buildings like this giant jug—once a liquor store, presumably, now a strip club—are everywhere, criss-crossed by overpasses. It's a city of shabby buildings, and exceptionally modest ambition. And above all, it's funky and weird, far from the glossy city that today recalls its former self only in random blocks on the far east side. 25 years ago, Portland was still borderline squalid, with a lethargy that made escaping it an act of utter and complete necessity.
Ironicall, one no longer itches to get away from Portland, Oregon…because while you're actually there you could be anywhere at all. Fortunately, nature endures: If it weren't for Mount Hood and the river spanned by those marvelous and quite ancient steel bridges, there'd be no distinguishing this place from, say, Columbus, Ohio…

A PDXmas, V

A PDXmas, IV

A PDXmas, III

A PDXmas, II

A PDXmas

This one's better because it has a Zeppelin in it

An iconic view down California Street in San Francisco, with the Bay Bridge in the background and a Zeppelin overhead.

In the dead of winter…

Mission San Miguel

Drive down El Camino Real (aka U.S. 101) south of King City and you'll see the bell tower of the Mission San Miguel Arcangel, established by the Franciscans in 1797. Secularized by the Mexican government in 1840, the buildings were used as a market and a saloon before they were returned to the Church in 1878, by which time California had become part of the United States; the Franciscan monks returned in 1928. The church (and its incredible frescoes—see below) were seriously damaged by an earthquake in 2003, but an admirable restoration project has allowed it to reopen to the public after being closed for six years.

Mission San Miguel

Apologies for the graininess of these photos; they were taken in very low light, and the camera pushes to 1600 ASA under those conditions. Nonetheless, I wanted to show the frescoes inside the Mission San Miguel, which just reopened after a restoration to repair earthquake damage. The mission was established in 1797; the church itself was completed in 1821, at around which time these frescoes were designed by Esteban Munras of Monterey and painted by the local Salinan people. The frescoes are unrestored and original, and although the building itself has been made safe for occupation there's still plenty of earthquake damage in evidence.

Fabulous Los Angeles II

On the next block of Sixth Street is the companion building to the Chapman Market: the Chapman Park Studios. Although it's the smaller of the two Spanish Revival fantasies, it's also the more interesting, at least from the outside, with finer details and a fascinating frescoed entryway. Completed in 1929, it's another fine building by Morgan Walls + Clements, the firm that also designed the Citadel in Commerce and the Wiltern Theatre on Wilshire, as well as the Mayan and El Capitan theatres in downtown L.A.

Fabulous Los Angeles

Amidst the squalor and ugliness that is much of L.A., many fine architectural treasures remain. One is the Chapman Market, a 1928 Spanish Revival building by Morgan Walls + Clements on West Sixth at Alexandra in the mid-Wilshire district not far from MacArthur Park. The top image shows the central section, while the image above shows one of the two elevated sections that flank it at either end.

The magic glow of neon

Mission Street at 2nd. I hope they sell enough Steinways to keep that neon sign glowing ad infinitum.

Kearny Street, San Francisco

Kearny at Commercial: If I had a newspaper, I'd want to have its offices in a building like this. Lucky are those who work at the Sing Tao daily...and the waxing studio on the top floor.

Kearny Street, San Francisco

There's still a lot to enjoy in the façade of this building on Kearny Street between Washington and Clay, despite the attempt by whoever owns it to ruin it with cheap signage and tacky awnings at street level. It's obviously a pretty squalid tenement inside, but the exterior remains lovely. Wonder how long it will last...

Brazil in SF

Although I wasn't totally blown away by the latest exhibit at Yerba Buena, "When Lives Become Form: Contemporary Brazilian Art, 1960s to the Present," I did see a few things that made me smile. From top, Beatriz Milhazes' window treatment, osgemeos' "Untitled," and Rogerio Degaki's "Vicky," oil on canvas that looks like it's been knit instead of painted.

Who's hungry?

Fish salad? I think I'll pass...

Budapest: Street views

Budapest: Bridges

At top, the Chain Bridge, built 1839-49, first to span the Danube from Buda to Pest. At bottom, the Liberty Bridge, 1894-99. Both are reconstructions, the originals having been destroyed by the Nazis as they departed Budapest in 1945.

The fabulous buildings of Budapest, part II

Exemplary, but not at all unusual in a city of rich architectural detail.

The fabulous buildings of Budapest

From the late 19th Century, another masterpiece of style and proportion.

Budapest: Art Noveau

More Art Noveau in Budapest.

Budapest: Art Noveau

A fabulous Art Noveau building in Budapest; note the incredible tiles.

Budapest: The Turkish influence

The Ottoman influence can also be seen at the mausoleum of Gul Baba, who brought the cultivation of roses to Budapest.

Budapest: The Turkish influence

Few traces remain of the Ottoman era in Budapest (1526-1686), but the Turkish influence makes itself known in baths like the Kiraly, whose exterior is shown here. Built from 1566 to 1570, the baths were revised and added onto over the years, but much of the building is still original.

Budapest: Architectural ornament

Two distinct styles of ornament in Budapest.

Budapest: A pair of entryways

Budapest: A magnificent coffee house

Recently restored and reopened, the Alexandra Bookstore on Andrassy Ut in Budapest features one of the most magnificent cafes in the world, its interior decorated with gorgeous frescoes depicting the various arts. The building is an Art Noveau masterpiece with Egyptian influences which in its first incarnation was the Paris department store.
Needless to say, the place was packed...who wouldn't want to enjoy an afternoon espresso in such a wonderful environment?